Borlotti Beans

There was a time in my life when, in my Hedonistic response to prior poverty, that I rarely ate beans. I even asked they be omitted from my burritos at Taquerias. Ridiculous, I know. But let's be fair. Years of Lentils every day, refried beans on tortillas, and even bean spread sandwiches? It's the same type of aversion one has to Vodka after a blood poisoning bender. Beans were the main ingredient (often the ONLY ingredient) in every day life for so long, they just lost their appeal.

However, I have since rediscovered the bean. When used with the sensibility of a finer palate, (rather than the one that used stolen Taco Bell sauces to vamp up their flavour), beans take an entirely diverse and splendid role in cuisine.

For the next few weeks, I will be focusing my posts on the elegant bean. From hearty stews, to light sandwiches and salads, beans will take a centrifuge role in a series that I have coined:

The Poor Food Movement.

For the first installment, I am sharing a simple recipe that celebrates the bean as a dish unto itself.

Borlotti beans

1 cup dried Borlotti beans

2 oz Pancetta, diced

1 onion, quartered

1 Bay leaf

3 or 4 whole cloves of garlic

7 cups water, or broth of choice

olive oil

sea salt

sprig of rosemary

Soak beans overnight. Rinse and drain and set aside. In a medium sauce pan, cook pancetta until beginning to crisp, and fat is rendered. Add onion and garlic and saute for a few minutes. Add beans, water or broth, Bay leaf, some olive oil, and sea salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about two hours, until beans are tender. During the last 30 minutes, add rosemary. When tender, remove onion, rosemary, and garlic. Mash about 1/3 of the beans and adjust salt to taste.

This is great over Ciabatta toasts, served alone, as a side dish, or when doubled, as a requisite to tomorrow's post, Tuscan Country Bean Soup.

The Anatomy of a Burger

About a year ago, I decided that my occasional home made burger was always lacking something, no matter how creative I was. So, I began to look at the fundamentals. To begin my research, I spent several months eating burgers from all over town with a near embarrassing and gut busting frequency. Then, I began the odyssey of perfecting the burger at home.

Forget all the fancy burger recipes that litter magazines in the summer. (I've made them all, believe me).

In my quest to make the best burger, I have come to the conclusion that the slider is the superior choice.

There are some very important elements to a burger, and due consideration to give them.

Let's begin with:

The Meat

If grinding your own meat is an option, do it. Aside from the innumerable horrid realities of packaged ground meat, there is after all, taste to consider. If you are unable to grind your own, visit a local butcher shop and ask them to grind it for you. There is no comparison of fresh ground meat, to pre-purchased ground trimmings of thousands of cows with a flavourless fat ratio.

Which brings up a very important point.

Lean meat is not always better. The flavour is in the fat. Remember, this isn't a salad we're talking about. It's a burger. I have found that a 30% ratio of fat is nonpareil for a burger. To achieve this best, use chuck roast and brisket. I use 1.5 lb. of chuck to .5 lb.. of brisket. The fat marbleized in the chuck gives great flavour while the brisket adds a nice beefiness.

Size matters, and big isn't necessarily better. Too much meat is overwhelming to the rest of the ingredients. Also, a burger charred just on the outer layer and pink throughout is more easily achieved in smaller sizes. An average sized scoop of ice cream (slightly less than .25lb.) is the inimitable amount of meat. It will cook perfectly and be easy to hold in the bun.

It is also important to note, that you want to handle the meat as little as possible. To preserve the flavour and texture, you need to let it be loose. Over handling presses the meat together, and breaks down the fat, leaving you with a hockey puck as a result.

This is the most crucial factor in a burger.

The Cheese

I love it.

I like it raw, stinky, and strong. The more a cheese smells like a corpse, the better it is.

But not on a burger.

I find sharper cheeses steal all the glory of the meat. Alternately, mild cheddar disappears in the end product. Medium cheddar is veritably delicious. The balance of flavours takes centre stage here. American Cheese Food is neither cheese, nor food, so I will not give it any consideration.

Ever.

Go ahead, call me a Commie.

The Toppings

Here, there are no rules. It's what you like. However, stick to the principle of simplicity. I like a little burger sauce, sometimes with Dill Pickle, and Umami Ketchup (recipes below). Maybe some slices of my home made Zucchini pickles (post forthcoming), or a tomato slice with mustard. (Home made Dijon is the bomb!)

Not to be overlooked is:

The Bun

I prefer a simple bun as well. Again, it's about balance. Too much bun ruins it. No potato, sesame, or sweet onions for me. Maybe a sea salted brioche once in a while, but mostly I use Franz Bakery. Fairly generic yet always fresh and soft. And it's local.

And so we have:

Sliders

2 lb. Chuck Roast or 1.5 plus .5 lb. of Brisket

Salt and Pepper

Medium Cheddar Cheese

Burger Sauce

Sliced whole Dill Pickles (Pickled Planet is the best)

Umami Ketchup

10 buns

Method

Preheat grill to high. If grinding your own meat, place in the freezer for 30 minutes. Make the burger sauce, and any other preparations while chilling beef. Cut lengthwise in to 1 1/2" to 2" strips and grind. Using cold wet hands, gently toss the meat to combine, and season with salt. Scoop an ice cream scoop's worth of meat on to a plate (you can use a scoop if desired), and carefully form a patty, using your thumbs to press down the middle and your fingers to keep its shape. You should be able to get 10 to 12 patties out of the 2 lbs. meat. Place in the refrigerator for an additional 30 minutes. Once you are ready to grill, generously salt (and then pepper to taste), both sides of each patty, being careful not to break them apart.

Note: Beef can handle a lot more salt than most people realize. When salted just before cooking, it helps retain the moisture (ie; fat) in the meat. If salted too early, it will dry it out.

Grill patties for about 4 minutes and turn. Grill an addition 4 minutes for medium rare, adding cheese during last minute.

During the last 4 minutes, grill insides of buns for one minute or until toasted.

Place patties in the buns and serve with accompaniments.

Burger Sauce

1/2 cup of mayonnaise

3 T. of chili sauce (I use Hommade brand)

1 T. Dijon

1 t. Horseradish

some chopped Dill Pickle

(Amounts are approximate)

Mix all ingredients.

And now, for the amazing UMAMI KETCHUP! I would like to say that this is the most delicious ketchup. It is deep, earthy, umami goodness. This is like a good sauce. My friend Andy wants me to serve it over pasta! No tart vinegar here. We've now moved beyond that.

Forever.

Umami Ketchup

(recipe courtesy of Saveur Magazine and Umami Burger in Los Angeles, CA)

1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1⁄2 cup cider vinegar 1⁄3 cup packed dark brown sugar 2 tbsp. tomato paste 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 tsp. tamari 2 tsp. worcestershire 2 tsp. oyster sauce 5 anchovies, finely chopped and mashed into a paste

1. Purée tomatoes in a blender; set aside. Heat oil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Add onions; cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Add tomato purée, vinegar, brown sugar, tomato paste, and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 1 hour.

2. Purée cooked tomato mixture in a blender. Transfer to a bowl; season with salt and stir in remaining ingredients. Cover and chill before using.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #122

Pizza Margarita

The quintessential Pizza Margarita is perhaps the most important dish to ever come out of Naples. First created in 1889 during a visit there by Italy's Queen Margherita, it is considered by many to be the most venerable of pies. There are as many interpretations as there are Pizzaoli, and I have made a variety of them. Here is a version I like when it's time to grill the pizzas and the tomatoes are still green on the vine.

See Grilled Pizza post for complete recipe of pie...

1 28 oz can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed

Fresh whole milk Mozzarella di Bufala, pressed and sliced 1/4" thick

3 or 4 cloves garlic, minced

Olive oil

Fresh Oregano, minced

Fresh Basil, torn

Sea salt

Method

Heat olive oil in a large saucepan and add garlic. Sauté for one or two minutes and add tomatoes. Reduce heat to a medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Add some sea salt and some oregano and simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Allow to cool. Once your dough is prepared and your grill is hot, lightly brush with olive oil. Spread tomato sauce evenly over pie and place slices of cheese on top. Do not over crowd with cheese. Grill pizza and add fresh basil as soon as it comes off the fire and serve immediately.

Eat Your Garden

If you have a garden, like I do, you're probably eating a lot of salads right now. (And giving neighbours a lot of extra Kale, in my case). If you do not have your own garden, head to one of the numerous Farmers' Markets in your city, and take home a happy bounty of affordable fresh produce. Every Saturday, you can find The Erudite Eater casually perusing the Hollywood Farmers' Market in search of the few produce items I am lacking in, for the week. For example, I never did get around to making that new bed for Italian Squash.

The greatest thing about eating your garden is the immense satisfaction and nourishment that one has provided one's self. Planting, tending, and harvesting have deep ritualistic ties to my inner contentment. And let's face it, I love to eat.

I've seen a lot of recipes floating around lately that are based on fresh ingredients and salads in particular. Try picking up a food magazine that doesn't dedicate a fair amount of space to produce this time of year. The problem I find is this. I don't want to go spend $50.00 at the market to supplement my garden salad with a bunch of frou frou ingredients to make it special. What makes it special for me is inherent in what I already have. And I'll work from that.

Simplicity is at the core of what I consider a good salad.

Keep in mind that a salad should reflect what you have to work with at the time. I go out, and pick until I have whatever I feel I need. This is a somewhat organic process, in that it changes, based on what feels natural (or necessary), to pick. Then, I compose the salad.

Here is a simple variation on a rather popular type of salad to try.

Green Salad with Beets and Goat Cheese

Greens (I use a variety of baby lettuces, escarole, kale, etc...)

3 or 4 Beets

Goat Cheese (Trader Joe's has a log of Silver Goat at an easy to digest price)

Olive oil

Red Wine Vinegar

Sea Salt

Method:

Wash and peel beets. Cut into bite sized wedges, drizzle and toss with some olive oil and roast at 400 F until tender, (about 40 minutes). Cool. Wash greens, and tear into pieces in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil and red wine vinegar. Think 3 parts oil to one part vinegar as a general rule. Toss with greens, toss in beets and sea salt and crumble cheese over the top.

It's all you really need.

Grilled Pizza

Pizza is a perfect food. The delicate balance of molten cheese, fresh sauce or quality olive oil, and charred, springy crust harmoniously brings all the pleasure sensations together. And while everyone seems to offer it, from haute cuisine to low brow bars, its resurgence in the restaurant scene is often muddled by pretentious ingredients, arrogant staff, and condescending menus.

Due to its recession proof appeal, many chefs have added pizza to their menus. I've even seen it in Asian fusion restaurants.

I find this all (in a way), amusing, given the price of a pie in most restaurants. Even on the lower end, finding a pizza for under $15.00 is nearly impossible.

As my imaginary inner Italian Grandmother would tell you, "You want a pizza? Make a pizza!"

Pizza is an art. It requires passion to create it properly. Papa Murphy's doesn't come anywhere close to resembling pizza.

To make it, you'll also need patience.

And a grill.

Seriously, unless your oven reaches at least 900 degrees F, you will be wasting your efforts there. And no, you do not need a stone. A grill can reach up to 550 or 650 degrees F, and a stone requires more to actually be effective. I have used a stone in a brick, wood fired oven that reached 850 degrees, and that was the proper application, (in fact, it was the perfect crust). Any temperature less than that, and the stone will steam the crust, locking in the moisture, yet not charring the outside.

In this recipe a perforated pan works best. This allows your coals, or gas flames to char the crust. You can find them in the BBQ section of most stores.

I prefer making my own dough, but this is not always practical. For this recipe, I use a purchased dough. (Think Pastaworks, New Seasons, Trader Joe's)...

A favourite of anyone who's had it:

Pizza di Funghi

1 or 2 Packages of dough of choice, rested at room temperature for one hour

Olive oil

Quattro Formaggio (Fontina, Asiago, Provolone or Mozzarella, Parmesan)

2 oz of dried wild mushrooms, reconstituted, and all moisture gently pushed out

Truffle oil

Method:

This recipe is for two pizzas. If you prefer a Napoleon style crust as I do, divide dough into two equal parts. This will give you two 13" pizzas. If you prefer a bit more tooth to your crust, use entire amount per pie. (The picture I took was made with an entire package, which makes a more Sicilian style crust). On a lightly floured surface, gently press the dough from center out, using your fingers to create a rim around the outside. Spread the dough until it reaches the correct size. Be very careful not to knead the dough. If the dough is resilient, and shrinks back on you, wait a few minutes and begin again. Never use a rolling pin. The idea is to spread the dough without removing the air in it. This is essential for a proper crust. I've lost patience and used a pin, only to find myself unequivocally disappointed. Once dough is spread out, place on a perforated pan. Drizzle olive oil over the dough. Spread the cheeses evenly over the pie. If you are using fresh mozzarella in your blend, I recommend pressing the moisture out of the cheese before mixing it in. This isn't a soup recipe. Sprinkle the pie with the mushrooms and place over a hot grill and cover. Check the pizza in 4 or 5 minutes and turn if necessary. Cooking time will vary, depending on your grill. Char the pizza, without over doing it. Carefully remove from pan and drizzle with Truffle oil. Allow to set for a few minutes before slicing.

Serve with sea salt and Calabrian Peppers on the side.

Mangia!

Pasta all'Arrabiata

Angry pasta. Traditional of inexpensive cafés and street vendors in Rome, all'arrabiata relies heavily on the pungency of fresh garlic and red peppers. This is a simple and delicious pasta dish that gratifies both the 'comfort food' and the 'desire food' cravings. It is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta. An excellent choice for an impromptu mid-week dinner, or a perfect Saturday lunch.

The way I do it:

1 lb. Pasta of choice. (I typically use dried Linguine)

1/4 cup Olive Oil

4 Roma Tomatoes, seeded and diced

4-6 cloves fresh Garlic, minced

6 or to taste Calabrian Peppers, seeded and chopped or

Red Pepper flakes

Fresh Basil leaves, julienned

Sea Salt

Pecorino Romano, freshly shaved

Bring well salted water to a boil and cook pasta al dente. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat oil and sauté garlic and peppers over medium-high heat for 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in tomatoes and basil. Toss with pasta and serve, sprinkled with sea salt and shaved Romano.

Note:

Romano is salty. I just like the crunch of the sea salt flakes. I don't use too much of either. If you like a lot of cheese on your pasta, omit the salt, if desired. Also, the minty basil adds an intricate contrast to the peppers. Use it only if it's fresh.

I enjoy this with a full fruited Barbera. Cascade Cliffs of Washington (2006 vintage), makes the most plum forward variety I've had. It is immediately approachable and quells the heat of the dish effectively, without diminishing the flavour.

This wine can be found at my neighbourhood wineshop, The Blackbird. Incidentally, I highly recommend their Nebbiolo 2005, as well.

De Lasanis

A little history.

Macaroni and Cheese, or Macaroni Pudding as it was once called in The States, has a long and somewhat unclear history. Thomas Jefferson is oft times incorrectly accredited with the invention of Mac and Cheese. This is a semi charming American fable that is derived from a trip that he took to Europe, where he was introduced to the dish. He can in all fairness, be given attribute for the fact that he did return to The United States with a pasta machine. And who wouldn't have? There is something quite magical that happens to cheese, when given the proper opportunity to meld with pasta. Macaroni and Cheese, as it was subsequently coined, became an American staple. It was even considered a matter of social station, and common at White House dinner parties. There are even those that claim it is the original American Food.

There have as a result, been as numerous interpretations of the dish, as there are stars above. Naturally, even in its simplicity, recipes are coveted, secret to all but perhaps one lucky family member to carry on the legacy. These closely guarded secrets enrich the cultural integrity of the dish, lending to great story telling.

Sadly, and far more commonly, processed cheese powder in a box has become a household staple; a replacement in war times, for the authentic comfort of the original. This can be blamed on Kraft Foods, whom first packaged it in 1937, and represents the dissolved culture of food, due to mass homogenization and factory processing that began (and forgot to end), during the 30's and 40's.

Thankfully, awareness is on the rise. And Macaroni and Cheese is not to be excluded. In recent years, it has re-gained cult status. It is highly popular with the "Foodie" crowd, and there are restaurants that achieve their bottom line just for having it on their menu. I know of one here in Portland, that would have met its demise years ago, if not for their interpretation, (one very close to the original), and the fact that they stay open late enough to cater to a particular crowd, that craves it as a finish to their imbibing.

The earliest recorded recipe is entitled, 'de lasanis.' It is found in the anonymously authored Italian, "Liber de Coquina," the second half of a text, written in Latin, and preserved in The Bibliothéque, in Paris, France. It was written, along with its French counterpart, "Tractatus," the first half of the text, in the late 13th or early 14th century. This version calls for Lasagne sheets of fermented dough cut in small squares, cooked in water, then tossed with cheese, and layered with powdered spices.

There are a great many paths we could go down here, drilling into the history of Macaroni itself, which is often associated with the Etruscan Era, Ancient China, The Greeks, The Romans, and The Arabians, as early as 800 BC.

Let us instead, discuss Method

To roux or not to roux, that is the question.

My personal odyssey to perfect Macaroni and Cheese, came a few years ago. A friend had purchased a nice and rather expensive 3 lb brick of aged white Cheddar. He was hoping I could reproduce a version similar to his recently estranged girlfriend's, a molten dish of cheese and macaroni, with a crusty, almost leather like top coating of extra cheese. I remembered this version from my Mom's own style, and proceeded to fail miserably. The reason? I am roux inclined. I also thought it would be nice to incorporate a bread crumb topping, completely foiling the point of the craving, entirely. I have since been on the mission of perfecting the dish I then failed to accomplish, and have come to the realization, (and through much experimentation of both schools), that though the molten non-roux version harkens to my memory senses as well, what I was experimenting in was a seminal step in a more gratifying conclusion. Setting sentimentality aside, I continued my course.

The iconoclastic food critic, John Thorne, famously wrote in his description of roux in Macaroni and Cheese as, "a noxious paste of flour thickened milk, that diminishes this dish, flavoured with a tiny grating of cheese."

Sir, I feel you were mistreated; as it is clear to me, you have not had a proper roux, especially in relationship to the genius of a roux-based Macaroni and Cheese. Allow me to amend.

Before I begin to disclose the most valuable recipe in my culinary cache, I feel compelled to discuss the variable elements that I found myself wanting to represent.

For example, Truffles. I love them. They belong in a dish with a lot of cheese. It's elementary though, not for the faint of palate. Now, bacon. Specifically, Pancetta. The fat, the flavour, it is a natural accompaniment. A dairy venerating Vegetarian can omit this, and not feel anything missing, though I just like its presence here.

The warm and gooey that is Macaroni and Cheese manifested, deserves something to give it some contrast. I found this in using Blue Cheese and more importantly, capsicum. It is exactly this combination that sets my recipe apart. Without capsicum, and the bite of the blue cheese, my recipe would be fantastic. With these two elements, used as fundamentals, it is something more. I believe this combination, is what makes this version better. In my ever so humble opinion.

The Recipe

1 lb Ciocciolle or other short, tubular pasta

3 to 4 oz Pancetta, diced

1 T. olive oil

1 small white onion, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 t. red pepper flakes

1/2 t. white pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 T. flour,

2 T. melted butter, combined

2 cups whole milk,

1 cup heavy cream, combined

3 cups sharp white cheddar

2 cups Rouge Creamery's Oregonzola, or a good gorgonzola available

2 T. white truffle oil

1 oz white truffles, shaved, if available

Topping

3 cups fresh bread crumbs or 2 cups Panko

1 cup aged white cheddar

1 cup parmigiano reggiano

1/2 stick (4 T.) butter, melted

If using fresh bread crumbs, bake in a 400 degree F oven for 15 minutes. This dish is baked at 400 degrees, as well, so leave it on or preheat now. Bring salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until par done, about 2 to 3 minutes less than recommended for al dente. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat milk and cream to a simmer, being careful not to boil or scald. In a large pot, heat olive oil and cook Pancetta until just beginning to crisp. Add onions and sauté until translucent. Add garlic, red pepper and continue to sauté for a minute. Add wine, and cook until nearly evaporated. Stir in butter and flour mixture until incorporated and thick. Add milk and cream, whisking in, until flour mixture is combined. Add cheddar, stirring until combined. Add Gorgonzola, and stir in truffle oil and 1/2 of the truffle shavings if using. Stir in white pepper.

Combine with pasta. Place in a deep sided oven proof dish and mix toppings. If using truffles, add remaining 1/2 oz to topping mixture and spread evenly over dish. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, or until sizzling and golden brown on top. Allow to rest 5 or 10 minutes before serving.

Relish in your gluttony. It is the ultimate guilty pleasure food.