Showing posts with label menu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label menu. Show all posts

15 December 2008

The Lighter Side Of Winter

It's nearly Christmas, which in my house means 3 very anxious children and an even more anxious partner, whom is in her 1st year of Law School.  Cramming for finals seems to lead to a near complete lack of a real appetite, coupled with frantic snacking, and joined by the occasional emotional outburst.

Since the kids are with their Mom tonight, I'm thinking that I get to make whatever I want.

"Hmm.  I loved that Boeuf Vingeronne I made last week," I said.  "How does a Brasato Bianchi sound?  Or maybe a Wild Mushroom Ragú with some Bucatini?  Mmmm.  And Steak."

"No.  I'm really not feeling that heavy.  I need something lighter,"   came the distant and scared reply.  

All right.  The last four hours of my pondering, meaty obsession has just been completely subjugated by the words "something lighter." 

And so it is.  

Summer at my house means mostly eating outside meals that consist of uncooked greens and various other raw foods, along with light pastas, and fire grilled meats and vegetables.  And although I grill year round, Autumn and Winter are my "soup" times.  I love soup.  In fact, my next entries are to be filled with soups, stews, and yes, I'll say it, even casseroles.  

However, there is always room to compromise.

So today, we're talking about Salads.  

And it's currently 22 Degrees F at this very moment.  

Sometimes, especially in the winter, we tend to eat much more heavily than we should. Often, we forgo greens altogether, with perhaps the exception of over cooked, vitamin drained stovetop concoctions.  

Personally, I find this an affront to the vegetable. It is disrespectful and diminutive of its vitality and character to steam it. There are rare and few gentle exceptions.  For example, blanching does not offend me. Crisp tender, along with al denté is simply a rule of my kitchen. 

So, it's way below freezing outside.  Feel free to mix in a salad.  

The bonus to this notion is that winter salads can satisfy the deepest of comfort food, meat centered cravings, while helping you balance your diet and still eat in a seasonal fashion which, truth be told, is the healthiest approach to diet that I can think of.

Let's begin with Pig.

Pork has an amazing way of satisfying my heathen urges while contributing a minimal amount of fat (relatively) to a meal.  I'm talking about bacon.  As an accent.

Now, we add an egg.  Warm, gooey, and a near perfect protein.

Combine these two ingredients and turn the most chilly salad into a warm, inviting, Lazy Sunday feast of pure indulgence, satisfaction, and intelligent eating.

This is something the French do very well, so we're going to base our salad on the concept of the French Bistro.

If you can get it, buy some side pork from your local butcher and cure it yourself. Otherwise, pick a good quality thick sliced bacon and proceed. The truth is, the higher in quality the bacon, the less you need.

Next, procure the freshest eggs you can.

And then...  Begin.

This recipe is for two.  Adjust quantities as necessary, or desired.

3  1/4" thick slices of Bacon sliced crosswise at 1/4" again
2  Eggs
8 oz Frisée or Mâche, Radicchio and/et Frisée
Red Onion, thinly sliced (about 1/4 cup)
2 T. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 T. fresh Lemon Juice
2 t. White Wine Vinegar 
1 t. Mustard (Dijon or Stone Ground)
1 thinly sliced Calabrian Hot Pepper, seeded (or 1 tsp red pepper flakes)
Sea Salt


Cook bacon in a cast iron skillet (or non stick), until beginning to crisp (about 5 minutes). Drain on a plate reserving 1 Tbsp of fat.

Whisk lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and bacon fat until smooth, and then whisk in olive oil. Stir in the hot pepper and a pinch of good sea salt.

Toss greens with onion and dressing and put onto plates.  Sprinkle with bacon.

Poach eggs and place on salads.

Pinch some more sea salt and fresh ground pepper over eggs.

Enjoy.
 












10 December 2008

Just Mull It Over


It happens.  

You've purchased a wine you have never tried before.  

You open it and pour.  As you lift the glass to your lips a slight shiver of anticipation, hope, and even fear crawls up the back of your neck and into your throat.  After all, it was pretty inexpensive. You lose all confidence. You look at your spouse to view their reaction as the tannins hit your tongue, which recoils to the roof of your mouth; wounded, indignant at your ignorance. 

You should have listened to your nose.  

It will be days before your palette will consider anything less than the best of the familiar wines in your mental repertoire. 

You hate throwing things away,  although dignity begs it of you. Hmm...  

You could make a sauce. 

Please, don't do that.  The sauce is only as good as the wine you use, I don't care how many days you cook it.  

Sangria?  

No, no, no.  Even more true with this sacred, often misunderstood, and refreshing libation.

It's time you go Medieval.

Back in the Dark Ages of no refrigeration, salt cured meats, and fermented vegetables buried in the ground next to your front door; wine didn't always age well.  Lo, what a few scoops of sugar, some water, and spices can do.  You can use citrus, honey, clove, nutmeg, and any number of ingredients to mull a wine.  It's even become a Holiday tradition.  

On top of that, you gain the self gratification of being a slightly less conspicuous consumer, recycling both the bottle and its contents.  Good one, you.  You remind me of my Great Grandmother.

Try this:

1 bottle of oops wine
1/2 Cup Brandy
1/4 cup raw sugar, Xylitol, or Agave Nectar 
(adjust quantities of alternative sweeteners)
1 T.  Raw Honey
Zest of a small orange, sans pith, smashed
Small chunk of fresh Ginger root (1" by 1" or so)
2-3 Cinnamon sticks
3-5 Whole Cloves
1-2 Whole Nutmegs
Pinch of Whole Cardamon Pods

Adjust, tweak, omit, and add ingredients as you like.

Bring all ingredients to a steaming hot pre-simmer over moderate heat. The slower, the better the Mull. Do not allow wine to boil, as you'll lose the alcohol. Strain into a warm beverage pitcher or punch bowl. Reserve spice mixture for up to a week for your next mistake or even intentional Mull. It's quite good.  

So, get into the Holiday Spirit.

Cheers