Pizza Margarita

The quintessential Pizza Margarita is perhaps the most important dish to ever come out of Naples. First created in 1889 during a visit there by Italy's Queen Margherita, it is considered by many to be the most venerable of pies. There are as many interpretations as there are Pizzaoli, and I have made a variety of them. Here is a version I like when it's time to grill the pizzas and the tomatoes are still green on the vine.

See Grilled Pizza post for complete recipe of pie...

1 28 oz can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed

Fresh whole milk Mozzarella di Bufala, pressed and sliced 1/4" thick

3 or 4 cloves garlic, minced

Olive oil

Fresh Oregano, minced

Fresh Basil, torn

Sea salt

Method

Heat olive oil in a large saucepan and add garlic. Sauté for one or two minutes and add tomatoes. Reduce heat to a medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Add some sea salt and some oregano and simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Allow to cool. Once your dough is prepared and your grill is hot, lightly brush with olive oil. Spread tomato sauce evenly over pie and place slices of cheese on top. Do not over crowd with cheese. Grill pizza and add fresh basil as soon as it comes off the fire and serve immediately.

Eat Your Garden

If you have a garden, like I do, you're probably eating a lot of salads right now. (And giving neighbours a lot of extra Kale, in my case). If you do not have your own garden, head to one of the numerous Farmers' Markets in your city, and take home a happy bounty of affordable fresh produce. Every Saturday, you can find The Erudite Eater casually perusing the Hollywood Farmers' Market in search of the few produce items I am lacking in, for the week. For example, I never did get around to making that new bed for Italian Squash.

The greatest thing about eating your garden is the immense satisfaction and nourishment that one has provided one's self. Planting, tending, and harvesting have deep ritualistic ties to my inner contentment. And let's face it, I love to eat.

I've seen a lot of recipes floating around lately that are based on fresh ingredients and salads in particular. Try picking up a food magazine that doesn't dedicate a fair amount of space to produce this time of year. The problem I find is this. I don't want to go spend $50.00 at the market to supplement my garden salad with a bunch of frou frou ingredients to make it special. What makes it special for me is inherent in what I already have. And I'll work from that.

Simplicity is at the core of what I consider a good salad.

Keep in mind that a salad should reflect what you have to work with at the time. I go out, and pick until I have whatever I feel I need. This is a somewhat organic process, in that it changes, based on what feels natural (or necessary), to pick. Then, I compose the salad.

Here is a simple variation on a rather popular type of salad to try.

Green Salad with Beets and Goat Cheese

Greens (I use a variety of baby lettuces, escarole, kale, etc...)

3 or 4 Beets

Goat Cheese (Trader Joe's has a log of Silver Goat at an easy to digest price)

Olive oil

Red Wine Vinegar

Sea Salt

Method:

Wash and peel beets. Cut into bite sized wedges, drizzle and toss with some olive oil and roast at 400 F until tender, (about 40 minutes). Cool. Wash greens, and tear into pieces in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil and red wine vinegar. Think 3 parts oil to one part vinegar as a general rule. Toss with greens, toss in beets and sea salt and crumble cheese over the top.

It's all you really need.

Grilled Pizza

Pizza is a perfect food. The delicate balance of molten cheese, fresh sauce or quality olive oil, and charred, springy crust harmoniously brings all the pleasure sensations together. And while everyone seems to offer it, from haute cuisine to low brow bars, its resurgence in the restaurant scene is often muddled by pretentious ingredients, arrogant staff, and condescending menus.

Due to its recession proof appeal, many chefs have added pizza to their menus. I've even seen it in Asian fusion restaurants.

I find this all (in a way), amusing, given the price of a pie in most restaurants. Even on the lower end, finding a pizza for under $15.00 is nearly impossible.

As my imaginary inner Italian Grandmother would tell you, "You want a pizza? Make a pizza!"

Pizza is an art. It requires passion to create it properly. Papa Murphy's doesn't come anywhere close to resembling pizza.

To make it, you'll also need patience.

And a grill.

Seriously, unless your oven reaches at least 900 degrees F, you will be wasting your efforts there. And no, you do not need a stone. A grill can reach up to 550 or 650 degrees F, and a stone requires more to actually be effective. I have used a stone in a brick, wood fired oven that reached 850 degrees, and that was the proper application, (in fact, it was the perfect crust). Any temperature less than that, and the stone will steam the crust, locking in the moisture, yet not charring the outside.

In this recipe a perforated pan works best. This allows your coals, or gas flames to char the crust. You can find them in the BBQ section of most stores.

I prefer making my own dough, but this is not always practical. For this recipe, I use a purchased dough. (Think Pastaworks, New Seasons, Trader Joe's)...

A favourite of anyone who's had it:

Pizza di Funghi

1 or 2 Packages of dough of choice, rested at room temperature for one hour

Olive oil

Quattro Formaggio (Fontina, Asiago, Provolone or Mozzarella, Parmesan)

2 oz of dried wild mushrooms, reconstituted, and all moisture gently pushed out

Truffle oil

Method:

This recipe is for two pizzas. If you prefer a Napoleon style crust as I do, divide dough into two equal parts. This will give you two 13" pizzas. If you prefer a bit more tooth to your crust, use entire amount per pie. (The picture I took was made with an entire package, which makes a more Sicilian style crust). On a lightly floured surface, gently press the dough from center out, using your fingers to create a rim around the outside. Spread the dough until it reaches the correct size. Be very careful not to knead the dough. If the dough is resilient, and shrinks back on you, wait a few minutes and begin again. Never use a rolling pin. The idea is to spread the dough without removing the air in it. This is essential for a proper crust. I've lost patience and used a pin, only to find myself unequivocally disappointed. Once dough is spread out, place on a perforated pan. Drizzle olive oil over the dough. Spread the cheeses evenly over the pie. If you are using fresh mozzarella in your blend, I recommend pressing the moisture out of the cheese before mixing it in. This isn't a soup recipe. Sprinkle the pie with the mushrooms and place over a hot grill and cover. Check the pizza in 4 or 5 minutes and turn if necessary. Cooking time will vary, depending on your grill. Char the pizza, without over doing it. Carefully remove from pan and drizzle with Truffle oil. Allow to set for a few minutes before slicing.

Serve with sea salt and Calabrian Peppers on the side.

Mangia!

Pasta all'Arrabiata

Angry pasta. Traditional of inexpensive cafés and street vendors in Rome, all'arrabiata relies heavily on the pungency of fresh garlic and red peppers. This is a simple and delicious pasta dish that gratifies both the 'comfort food' and the 'desire food' cravings. It is ready in the time it takes to cook the pasta. An excellent choice for an impromptu mid-week dinner, or a perfect Saturday lunch.

The way I do it:

1 lb. Pasta of choice. (I typically use dried Linguine)

1/4 cup Olive Oil

4 Roma Tomatoes, seeded and diced

4-6 cloves fresh Garlic, minced

6 or to taste Calabrian Peppers, seeded and chopped or

Red Pepper flakes

Fresh Basil leaves, julienned

Sea Salt

Pecorino Romano, freshly shaved

Bring well salted water to a boil and cook pasta al dente. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat oil and sauté garlic and peppers over medium-high heat for 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in tomatoes and basil. Toss with pasta and serve, sprinkled with sea salt and shaved Romano.

Note:

Romano is salty. I just like the crunch of the sea salt flakes. I don't use too much of either. If you like a lot of cheese on your pasta, omit the salt, if desired. Also, the minty basil adds an intricate contrast to the peppers. Use it only if it's fresh.

I enjoy this with a full fruited Barbera. Cascade Cliffs of Washington (2006 vintage), makes the most plum forward variety I've had. It is immediately approachable and quells the heat of the dish effectively, without diminishing the flavour.

This wine can be found at my neighbourhood wineshop, The Blackbird. Incidentally, I highly recommend their Nebbiolo 2005, as well.

De Lasanis

A little history.

Macaroni and Cheese, or Macaroni Pudding as it was once called in The States, has a long and somewhat unclear history. Thomas Jefferson is oft times incorrectly accredited with the invention of Mac and Cheese. This is a semi charming American fable that is derived from a trip that he took to Europe, where he was introduced to the dish. He can in all fairness, be given attribute for the fact that he did return to The United States with a pasta machine. And who wouldn't have? There is something quite magical that happens to cheese, when given the proper opportunity to meld with pasta. Macaroni and Cheese, as it was subsequently coined, became an American staple. It was even considered a matter of social station, and common at White House dinner parties. There are even those that claim it is the original American Food.

There have as a result, been as numerous interpretations of the dish, as there are stars above. Naturally, even in its simplicity, recipes are coveted, secret to all but perhaps one lucky family member to carry on the legacy. These closely guarded secrets enrich the cultural integrity of the dish, lending to great story telling.

Sadly, and far more commonly, processed cheese powder in a box has become a household staple; a replacement in war times, for the authentic comfort of the original. This can be blamed on Kraft Foods, whom first packaged it in 1937, and represents the dissolved culture of food, due to mass homogenization and factory processing that began (and forgot to end), during the 30's and 40's.

Thankfully, awareness is on the rise. And Macaroni and Cheese is not to be excluded. In recent years, it has re-gained cult status. It is highly popular with the "Foodie" crowd, and there are restaurants that achieve their bottom line just for having it on their menu. I know of one here in Portland, that would have met its demise years ago, if not for their interpretation, (one very close to the original), and the fact that they stay open late enough to cater to a particular crowd, that craves it as a finish to their imbibing.

The earliest recorded recipe is entitled, 'de lasanis.' It is found in the anonymously authored Italian, "Liber de Coquina," the second half of a text, written in Latin, and preserved in The Bibliothéque, in Paris, France. It was written, along with its French counterpart, "Tractatus," the first half of the text, in the late 13th or early 14th century. This version calls for Lasagne sheets of fermented dough cut in small squares, cooked in water, then tossed with cheese, and layered with powdered spices.

There are a great many paths we could go down here, drilling into the history of Macaroni itself, which is often associated with the Etruscan Era, Ancient China, The Greeks, The Romans, and The Arabians, as early as 800 BC.

Let us instead, discuss Method

To roux or not to roux, that is the question.

My personal odyssey to perfect Macaroni and Cheese, came a few years ago. A friend had purchased a nice and rather expensive 3 lb brick of aged white Cheddar. He was hoping I could reproduce a version similar to his recently estranged girlfriend's, a molten dish of cheese and macaroni, with a crusty, almost leather like top coating of extra cheese. I remembered this version from my Mom's own style, and proceeded to fail miserably. The reason? I am roux inclined. I also thought it would be nice to incorporate a bread crumb topping, completely foiling the point of the craving, entirely. I have since been on the mission of perfecting the dish I then failed to accomplish, and have come to the realization, (and through much experimentation of both schools), that though the molten non-roux version harkens to my memory senses as well, what I was experimenting in was a seminal step in a more gratifying conclusion. Setting sentimentality aside, I continued my course.

The iconoclastic food critic, John Thorne, famously wrote in his description of roux in Macaroni and Cheese as, "a noxious paste of flour thickened milk, that diminishes this dish, flavoured with a tiny grating of cheese."

Sir, I feel you were mistreated; as it is clear to me, you have not had a proper roux, especially in relationship to the genius of a roux-based Macaroni and Cheese. Allow me to amend.

Before I begin to disclose the most valuable recipe in my culinary cache, I feel compelled to discuss the variable elements that I found myself wanting to represent.

For example, Truffles. I love them. They belong in a dish with a lot of cheese. It's elementary though, not for the faint of palate. Now, bacon. Specifically, Pancetta. The fat, the flavour, it is a natural accompaniment. A dairy venerating Vegetarian can omit this, and not feel anything missing, though I just like its presence here.

The warm and gooey that is Macaroni and Cheese manifested, deserves something to give it some contrast. I found this in using Blue Cheese and more importantly, capsicum. It is exactly this combination that sets my recipe apart. Without capsicum, and the bite of the blue cheese, my recipe would be fantastic. With these two elements, used as fundamentals, it is something more. I believe this combination, is what makes this version better. In my ever so humble opinion.

The Recipe

1 lb Ciocciolle or other short, tubular pasta

3 to 4 oz Pancetta, diced

1 T. olive oil

1 small white onion, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 t. red pepper flakes

1/2 t. white pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 T. flour,

2 T. melted butter, combined

2 cups whole milk,

1 cup heavy cream, combined

3 cups sharp white cheddar

2 cups Rouge Creamery's Oregonzola, or a good gorgonzola available

2 T. white truffle oil

1 oz white truffles, shaved, if available

Topping

3 cups fresh bread crumbs or 2 cups Panko

1 cup aged white cheddar

1 cup parmigiano reggiano

1/2 stick (4 T.) butter, melted

If using fresh bread crumbs, bake in a 400 degree F oven for 15 minutes. This dish is baked at 400 degrees, as well, so leave it on or preheat now. Bring salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until par done, about 2 to 3 minutes less than recommended for al dente. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat milk and cream to a simmer, being careful not to boil or scald. In a large pot, heat olive oil and cook Pancetta until just beginning to crisp. Add onions and sauté until translucent. Add garlic, red pepper and continue to sauté for a minute. Add wine, and cook until nearly evaporated. Stir in butter and flour mixture until incorporated and thick. Add milk and cream, whisking in, until flour mixture is combined. Add cheddar, stirring until combined. Add Gorgonzola, and stir in truffle oil and 1/2 of the truffle shavings if using. Stir in white pepper.

Combine with pasta. Place in a deep sided oven proof dish and mix toppings. If using truffles, add remaining 1/2 oz to topping mixture and spread evenly over dish. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, or until sizzling and golden brown on top. Allow to rest 5 or 10 minutes before serving.

Relish in your gluttony. It is the ultimate guilty pleasure food.

Oh Boy! It's NOT Oberto

Every so often, a friend will gift me with Venison Jerky (home smoked), Salami, Pepperoni, and of course the much coveted and incredible Elk Steaks. (The tenderloin is to die for, especially served with hand picked Morels, sautéed in olive oil). Another friend, makes beef jerky regularly, in his little dehydrator at home. He was my inspiration to try it myself, and recently, I have been experimenting with my own recipes.

This is a delicious and healthy treat. It's also incredibly easy to make, far more affordable than purchased jerky, and it gives you complete control over what you put on it. Personally, I can't eat jerky unless it is all natural. The nitrates, high levels of sodium, and sugar that packaged jerky contains, makes it unpalatable to me.

Jerky can be made with many different cuts and many different types of meat. For example, I enjoy pork jerky, using whole loin, and marinated in a Chili Ginger Honey Sauce. Some like the lean benefit of turkey or chicken. I prefer my jerky a little "gamey" and use mostly beef with little or even no marinade. Elk and Deer, if I can get it, is by far my favourite.

For jerky, it is crucial that you choose the leanest cuts. Fat will become rancid very quickly. With that in mind, any one you choose will work. I use a London Broil or other Top Sirloin and remove all fat prior to marinating. It takes around 3 lbs of meat to make 1 lb of jerky.

Freezing the meat for 30 minutes before slicing will help you cut it thin. Now, slice meat 1/8" to 1/4" thick against the grain. If you are marinating, place in an air proof container and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours. Remember, the point is to dry the meat so, if you marinate, it is important to know that it will increase the drying time.

The oven method is what I use, as I don't own a dehydrator. Setting your oven to its lowest temperature and leaving the door slightly ajar, is a great substitute. Even if you are an apartment dweller, you can make your own jerky. Most ovens have a low temperature of 170 Degrees F. Anything from 150 to 180 is fine. Obviously, the higher the temperature, the less time it takes. There is no set method here. At 170, it takes me 6 to 8 hours depending on the type of meat and the cut. Be sure to turn meat over after about 3 or 4 hours to ensure even drying. Additionally, it is important to be mindful of the second half of the drying time. You don't want to over do it. You'll end up with meat crackers.

You will need 1 or 2 baking sheets, rimmed. I recommend covering with foil. If you have cooling racks, place them on sheets. If not, remember to turn meat over during the drying process, as previously stated.

Some ideas:

Sweet Hot Beef Jerky

3 lbs London Broil, Top sirloin, or cut of choice

1/2 cup Worcestershire Sauce (organic uses far better ingredients. If you're using non-organic, you're getting all the bad stuff in packaged jerky)

1/2 cup Soy Sauce (or Teriyaki, omit brown sugar below)

3 cloves garlic, minced

T. red pepper flakes

T. brown sugar

sea salt to taste

liquid smoke (optional. Personally, I don't like it)

Slice and marinate beef. sprinkle with salt and dry in oven.

Peppered Beef Jerky

sea salt

black or red (or both) pepper

Slice and sprinkle with salt and pepper(s) and dry in oven.

Pig Jerky

3 lbs Whole Pork Loin

1/2 cup cider vinegar

juice of 1 lime

juice of 1 lemon

2 T. honey

1 T. raw sugar

1" by 1" piece ginger, minced

1/2 red bell pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 T. red pepper flakes

sea salt

Slice pork. Process all other ingredients and marinate.

Lay out the strips and start getting excited.

Homemade Soy Cheese

As a follow up to my last post, and in the interest of some of my readers, I have decided to add a method I use to make Soy cheese.  

I'm not much for substituting Gluten for meat, or other "fake" substitutes. Morning Star Bacon? Give me a break.  Some things however, I do like, such as Tofu, Garden Burgers (with Bacon) and Bocca Burger, which I like soft, un-fried, and is excellent with Hummus, avocado, and sprouts.  The point here, is that if you don't eat meat, why try to emulate it? Which brings us to Soy cheese. Like Tofu, it may be used as a substitute, but it is not pretending to be anything other than what it is.  And like the Garden Burger, it is not a cheap copy and it is delicious in its own right.

Evidence of the production of Soy cheese dates back as far as 25- 220 AD in the Henan Province in Northern China.  Dairy was not considered fit for human consumption, and didn't really appear in the Chinese diet until early in the 20th Century, fabled to be encouraged by an entrepreneur, whom wanted to import Paneer from India.  

So, I say, eat Soy cheese.  It is delicious, easy to make, and won't make you feel like a poseur. 

The following method is adaptable to your liking.  You can add/omit as you desire.  If you want something likened to Pepper Jack for example, add jalepeños...

Soy Cheese -adapted from the Zen Soy Cheese Recipe

You will need:

Filtered or Artesian  water.  (Tap water contains contaminants such as Iron, minerals, and the ever controversial Flouride, which can taint the colour and have a sour effect on the flavour).

3 (15 oz) packages firm or extra firm tofu

2.25 fluid oz soy powder

1 1/3 T. Grapeseed Oil (or any vegetable oil. I have used canola, olive...)

sea salt, to taste

3.4 fluid oz tamari

2.8 fluid oz apple cider vinegar

2.8 fluid oz raw tahini

2.8 fluid oz honey or agave nectar 

Drain tofu and cut blocks into thirds.  Bring water to a boil and boil tofu for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk all other ingredients together until smooth and all lumps have vanished. Drain tofu in a mesh colander, or a cheese cloth or cotton lined colander, for about ten minutes, gently pressing out any excess moisture. Transfer tofu to a large bowl and mash well until it has the consistency of cottage cheese.  Be sure not to leave any large lumps, nor to mash it too fine. Add the other ingredients and stir to combine.  Pour into a container and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.  Use as you like.

If you make this, let me know what you think.  I've often enjoyed this as a mid-day meal by itself, or the following, is a favourite lunch of mine:

Sprouted Wheat Bread

Soy Cheese (I often add caraway to the above recipe)

Beat Kraut (Pickled Planet, or homemade)

Avocado

Brown Mustard (also homemade)

Makes a delicious, nutritious sandwich.